Greenland is a beautiful nightmare Published on September 27, 2025 by matduggan.com --- Introduction Greenland is a deeply complex and emotionally charged topic in Denmark. Once a Danish colony, its relationship with Denmark involves a history of unethical treatment towards Greenlandic people and culture but also complicated pride among Danes with ties to Greenland. The author’s trip to Greenland was inspired by family connections and curiosity but began with uncertainty and apprehension about what to expect in such a remote place with a sparse population of about 55,000. --- Journey to Greenland Flight from Copenhagen to Greenland was fraught with delays: 5-hour flight with well-behaved children on board. Dangerous fog forced several hours of circling, then a detour to Iceland to refuel, before returning to Denmark. This kind of delay is routine for Greenland flights. Passengers were given free beverages on the return flights, many stashing them to save on Greenland’s high-cost imports. Greenland’s airports and buildings showed a contrast: metal exteriors with wood interiors, despite no trees growing locally—symbolizing something foreign and imposed. --- Nuuk – The Capital Nuuk is the calm heart of Greenland, inhabited by extremely relaxed, stress-free people. The surrounding environment is harsh: cold, snowy, rocky, and lacking vegetation. Despite its tiny size (approximately 6 km from one end to the airport), locals use buses and experience traffic jams. Katuaq cultural center showcased local cuisine and arts. Summers bring a strange combination of intense sunlight and biting cold, creating challenging weather conditions. --- Ilulissat – The Final Destination The flight to Ilulissat revealed Greenland’s vast, empty hills and shimmering ice sculptures. Ilulissat airport had a quirky feel, including Danish military recruitment posters, despite the area feeling naturally secure. The town was overwhelmed by relentless mosquitoes, requiring bug nets worn like plastic face bags. The Dogs Sled dogs lived chained with minimal freedom, contrary to expectations of happy, frolicking animals. Dogs were fed fish scraps stored without refrigeration, with some passing away unnoticed and unceremoniously discarded. This harsh reality dampened the family’s enthusiasm toward dog feeding time. --- Nature and Wildlife Icebergs dominate the landscape, slowly moving like massive mountain sculptures. Tours to see glaciers and whales gave insight into the local wildlife and natural phenomena. Glacier calving is infrequent, requiring visitors to go to very active glacier sites to witness ice breaking. Whale watching delighted the children, and glacier ice was enjoyed as a novel treat. --- Local Life and Economy Nuuk has a functioning but quirky bus system, like retrofitted party vans, and busy roads despite the town’s small size. Roads are difficult and expensive to build, requiring explosives due to the landscape. The question arises why locals own fancy cars given the limited road network and tiny accessible areas. Grocery shopping is limited mostly to alcohol, snacks, and shelf-stable foods; fresh meat is rare and expensive. Whale and Seal Meat Whale and seal meat are staples for protein in Greenlandic culture. The author observed hunting boats with bandaged guns, illustrating a harsh and industrialized subsistence lifestyle. Whale meat tastes somewhat like reindeer cooked with seaweed, not strongly fishy. Whaling remains a combination of cultural tradition and practical necessity despite global perspectives. --- Final Thoughts: Should You Visit Greenland? Greenland offers a one-of-a-kind experience that feels like science fiction come to life. People are incredibly kind, patient, calm, and resilient, having adapted ingeniously to an extremely hostile environment. Visitors should be prepared for the challenging